Sunday, March 6, 2011

StoneFly Article in the Record Courier


“Delightful ambiance,” “Beautifully built and decorated,” “Delicious food,” “Very pleasant service,” “A great addition to Markleeville,” “Ali is a wonderful cook.”

These are a sampling of the comments of customers who have been flocking to Stonefly every Friday and Saturday night since the restaurant opened on Feb. 11.

From Markleeville's snowy main street one crosses a magical threshold into an embrace of warmth and light. On every table there burns an array of votive candles in holders made from the staves of oak wine barrels; the oven's wood fire glows and sparks as Ali Bornstein shifts a pizza from the wooden paddle onto the oven's stone floor; light plays on glass, silver and on the faces of the participants of this night's feast. Friends and neighbors greet each other, talking and laughing over their delectable food and drink and winter travelers are quickly included in this atmosphere of affection.

Bornstein came to Alpine County in 1997 to help her college friend, Linda Merrill, with a bed and breakfast, The Mountain and Garden in Woodfords. Bornstein and Nick Hartzell, a local contractor, met shortly afterwards and were married in 2004. Bornstein has worked for many years in restaurants, mostly as a waitress and recently spent several months cooking and baking in Hope Valley Café.

When Villa Gigli went on the market, Hartzell and Bornstein began to entertain the idea of buying the property and continuing the tradition of offering good Italian food, adding other wholesome menu options. Although they did not buy Villa Gigli, they did meet Teddy Carlson-Brown, the Giglis' real estate agent, who later proposed the couple that they split the two lot property that was Molly's Boardwalk and that Nick build a real estate office and a restaurant with apartments above both buildings.

Construction started in May and the town rejoiced to see the emergence of two wood-framed, two-story buildings in perfect harmony with the architecture of the town. A visitor to Markleeville commented, “It's great that you're fixing up these old places,” an unwitting tribute to the sensitivity of the design.

In the months preceding the opening, Bornstein, assisted by Alpine County Library staff, immersed herself in research into Italian cookery, and restaurant decor and management. She made dough every day experimenting with a variety of flours and recipes, finally settling on a combination of tipo 00 flour (very finely milled, talcum powder soft, used by Italian pizzaiolos) and Giusto's unbleached high performer, high protein flour.

She lets the dough rise for three days in the refrigerator; slow rising produces a more flavorful dough. She makes the pizza on marble according to pizzaiolo guidelines. The wood-burning oven, imported from Italy, cooks the pizza in two minutes at 800 degrees. By the next morning the oven temperature has dropped to 475 degrees, just right to bake bread, crunchy on the outside, chewy on the inside (not to be missed). As the eagerly anticipated date drew closer, Bornstein invited groups of friends to rehearsal dinners.

One of the restaurant's lintels, embedded with cow hair, was found in a pasture. The counter is made from ipe, a South American hardwood. The walls have warm-colored Venetian plaster. Paintings of local artist Jared Manninen form the art exhibit, which will rotate.

Bornstein expresses deep gratitude for her team, Linda, salads and pantry, Luis, grill and saute, Whitney and Dana, waitresses, and Brandon and Gabe, dishwashers. Nick is host, provider of practical and moral support and sampler of the latest delicacies.

As far as possible, Bornstein uses vegetables in season, currently various root vegetables and winter greens. The potatoes are mashed with celery root and parsnips. All the food is created in-house. At least four antipastos are offered and five entrees, including fish, a variety of meats and at least two pizzas. Vegetarian fare is served. There are house wines and wines to excite the connoisseur. Long Board Lager and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale are on tap. French press coffee and teas are available. Dinner for two starts at around fo$40.

Stonefly is open 5-9 p.m. Friday and Saturday evenings. It may be open on more evenings during the summer. Reservations are recommended; call (530) 694-9999. The restaurant will close from mid-April until Memorial Day weekend. StoneFly Record Courier Article